_                                          _                 
 
  Home   Advertise with us   Contribute an article    Headline news


Activities

Countries

Fun Videos

Knowledge

For sale

Recipes

Camping 

Scrapbook
albums

Guestbook/ newsletter

Archives 

Sponsors

Physical Fitness

Events

Itinerary

Contribute

Job  ads

Free rental ads

Privacy Policy

Calendars

Living Vicariously

Safety tips

Wut2do

Search

Associate

Send us a link

Link to Us

Table of contents

Contact us

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Glossary     Untying  
Knot types
Securing     Hitches    Terminating      Hitches     Climber's Knots and Hitches   

Joining Knots     Loops   Gathering   Lashing 

Fishing Knots

Line Handling Techniques   Line Care

See also Survival techniques  and Making Cordage   

Knots

Knot that are self explanatory from the picture will not have a description of the tying method, whereas the more complicated ones will have an explanation. 

You can always use a good knot. Below you will find some example of common knots and some more exotic ones.

Securing Knots

The Bowline 
 Perhaps one of the most commonly used knot by those who know it. It can always be loosened. I t just doesn't jam no matter how tight you pull on it. It may be a little difficult to undo when employed in extreme situations, see our section on Untying Knots 

Bowline on Bight

 

 

 

Larks Head
Great for securing anything with ring or eye. You make a loop and push it through the eye bend the loop back over and pull it tight.

The simple noose or slip noose
As you can see this is a line wrapped around an object and a granny knot tied around the line. Note the overhand knot at terminal end to help keep the granny from coming undone.


Simple Noose

Granny knot or Overhand Knot
A simple unreliable knot that resembles the overhand knot but is tied around and object instead of being a terminating knot. Note this knot comes undone easily if there is any movement in the line. It is always best to tie a terminating knot in the loose end to help prevent from pulling through the knot and coming undone. Or better yet is to use an alternate knot or hitch.

Double Overhand or Double Granny Knot

 

Fishing Knots

Many a fish has slip back into the depths because fishermen have defended their method of tying which turned out to be less than it could be. Check these out and next time bring home the big one. Also see our fishing section.

Contents

Joining lines

Depending on the type of fishing line and the anticipated fighting abilities of the fish you may want to consider the following.


Clinch Knot 1

CLINCH KNOT

1. Put the end of the line through the eye of the hook and bring it back toward the line.

Clinch Knot 2

2. Make five twists around the line.

Clinch Knot 3

3. Take the end back toward the hook and push it through the first loop nearest the eye.

Clinch Knot 4

Important.
4. Bring the end back through the big loop. This feature is often ignored, allowing the line to pull through when you have the "big one" on.

Clinch Knot 5

5. Hold the hook and the line, pull the knot tight until it looks like the knot shown. Trim off the loose end to no longer than 3/16 of an inch or less.


TRILENE KNOT

1. Run the end of the line through the eye of the hook two times.

Trilene Knot 1

2. Loop the line around 4 or 5 times, then thread the loose end back between the two loops near the hook as shown.

Trilene Knot 2

3. Pull tight. Trim the loose end.

Trilene Knot 3

Palomar Knot 1

PALOMAR KNOT

1. Start with plenty of line.

Palomar Knot 2

2. Double the line and pass the end through the hook's eye.

Palomar Knot 3

3. Tie an overhand knot (like you were tying your shoe string) but do not pull it tight yet.

Palomar Knot 4

4. Pass the hook through the loop.

Palomar Knot 5

5. Pull the loose end of the line to tighten the knot. Trim the end. Leave at least 1/8 inch of your line at the knot.

The Jansik Special
A high strength knot tied as follows:
  1. Put 15cm (5-6 inches) of line through the eye of the hook.
  2. Bring it around in a circle and put the end through again.
  3. Making a second circle, pass then end through a third time.
  4. Holding the three circles of line against each other, wrap the end three times around the circles.
  5. Either hold the hook steady with pliers, or make it fast to boat's rigging or safety lines.
  6. Holding strain on the hook, pull on both ends of the line to tighten.

 

Hangman's Knot (not to be used for it's namesake)
 There are at least 6 variations of the Hangman's Knot, - all of them excellent for terminal tackle, swivels and hooks. The "standard" Hangman's Knot holds has five to eight turns.
  1. Pass a 15cm (5-6 inches) loop of line through the eye.
  2. Bring the end back on itself, passing it under the doubled part.
  3. Make five loops over the doubled part.
  4. The formed knot is worked into shape.
  5. The knot is sent down the line, against the eye of the hook or swivel.
Scaffold Knot

 This is a much simpler variant. In all likelihood, this Grant's Uni-Knot. I have used it for more than fifty years and it has never failed me, whether tied in 1kg or 50kg monofilament. It was taught to me by the late Wally Kerr, a top flathead fisherman.

  1. Pass a 15cm loop of line through the eye.
  2. Lock the upper part between thumb and forefinger, making a loop.
  3. Make two more loops over the double part, holding them too, between thumb and forefinger.
  4. Pass the end through the two loops just made, plus the first loop made in step2.
  5. The formed knot can now be drawn into shape, and worked down against the eye of the hook or swivel.

 

Scaffold Knot
Snelling A Hook Snelling 

 Restricted to lines of breaking strength less than about 20kg, the process is a simple one.

  1. Pass the loose end of the line through the eye twice, leaving a loop hanging below the hook.
  2. Hold both lines along the shank of the hook.
  3. Use the loop to wind tight coils around the shank and both lines, from the eye upwards. Use from 5 to 10 turns.
  4. Use the fingers to hold these tight coils in place. Pull the line (extending from the eye) until the whole loop has passed under these tight coils.
  5. With coils drawn up, use pliers to pull up the end of the line.
Loop knot

A simple and effective knot .

  1. Make a large loop and using it as the loose end tie an overhand knot. 
  2. Pull it tight leaving a loop at the end about 2 inches long.
  3. Pass the loop through the eye of the hook, down over the end of the hook and then snug it up.

 

Loop Knot
Blood Bight Knot

 Another  loop can be tied quickly and easily using the Blood Bight Knot which is a variation of the loop knot above but with a twist, literally.

  1. Double the line back to make a loop of the size desired.
  2. Bring the end of the loop twice over the doubled part.
  3. Now pass the end of the loop through the first loop formed in the doubled part.
  4. Draw the knot up into shape, keeping pressure on both lines.
  5. Pass the loop through the eye of the hook, down over the end of the hook and then snug it up.

 

Joining lines

Blood Knot
  1. Lie the ends of the two lines against each other, overlapping about 15cm (5-6 inches).
  2. Take 5 turns around one line with the end of the other, and bring the end back where it's held between the two lines.
  3. Repeat by taking 5 turns around the other line, bringing the end back between the two lines. These two ends should then project in opposite directions.
  4. Work the knot up into loops, taking care that the two ends do not slip out of position.
  5. Draw the knot up tightly.
Surgeon's Knot

 It will probably be necessary to have one of the lines rolled on a spool, or perhaps wrapped on a temporary card, so that it may be passed through the loop.

  1. Lay the two lines against each other (the red and the black), overlapping about 22.5 cm.(8")
  2. Working the two lines as one, tie an Overhand Knot. It will be necessary to pull either line (say the red) completely through this loop.
  3. Pull the red through this loop again.
  4. Pass the other end (black) through the loop.
  5. The formed knot can now be worked into shape.

 

 When pulling the hook to tighten the knots, use a pair of fisherman's pliers or hook it over the dull part of your knife near the handle.
 However you do it, use caution. It is common for for people to be injured by fish hooks. Removing a fish hook is difficult because of the barb. It is sometimes best to curl it around until the point comes out of the skin and then cut the end and  barb off, before attempting to work it back out. Be sure to disinfect and cover.

 

Terminal Knots

Over hand knot
The simplest and therefore  most commonly used. Not a particularly dependable knot as it loosens easily when tied around an object (Called a single granny when used as a securing knot). It works well as a terminating knot such as in sewing. A variation called a "Double Overhand" where the end of the line is placed through the loop a second time is used to create a larger terminal knot.

                       

Over hand - Half knot  and the Double Overhand

 

Figure 8 knot (or Flemish)
 A good terminator knot and is preferable to overhand knot in most cases. It is easier to untie and does not kink damage your line.

Heaving Knots.
Used to help  in  tossing (heaving) a line

  

Monkey Fist
 A nice decorative terminal knot that is used on lanyards, homemade jewelry, and in marine use as a throw line. This knot is rather complex and you will need to follow the instructions and pictures to get it right.
These instructions apply to a right handed monkey fist.

    • Wrap the line 3 times around the fingers of your left hand creating the primary coils and depending on the rope, leaving about 12-16 inches free. See "A"

    • Wrap the loose end (Red arrow) around the primary coils  3 time creating the secondary coil. Pass the loose end through the primary coil. See "B"

    • Your will then make a third coil by wrapping the loose end 3 times around the secondary coil while staying inside the primary coil. See "C" (rider?)

    • Lastly you need to work the slack from the loose end toward the lead end (Green) until you have a tight ball. See "D"

In times past this was tied around around a small 1 pound cannonball from a signal cannon, to give it weight when it was used as a throw line.

     

Lashings
These are used for fastening 2 or more poles together 
See our Survival section where these knots are used to create shelters.

Diagonal Cross lashing
Used when two crossing spars tend to spring apart. Commonly used for the centre lashing on the diagonal braces of a trestle.

  • Begin with a timber hitch.
  • Do three diagonal turns across one way.
  • Then three across the other way.
  • Pull the lashing together with about three frapping turns
  • Finish off with a clove hitch.

 

Diagonal  Cross hitch

Climber's Knots and Hitches

Buntline Hitch
 This is a popular climbers hitch
See Rock Climbing

Anchor Bend

 

Kliemheist Loop
A traction hitch - Used to tie in to a line

Kruetzldem Loop
Another traction hitch - Also used to tie in to a line

Prussik Climber's loop
Another traction hitch - Also used to tie in to a line

 

 

Hitches

Blakes Hitch

Clove hitch

This knot is used commonly in nautical or marine applications and has carried over to every day use. However this knot can become loose (especially from the swaying of a boat), unless tension is continuously applied to both ends.

  

Constrictor Hitch
This is similar to the clove hitch in appearance but note that the ends are constricted  by the hitch turns.

Highway Man's Hitch
This is a useful form of slip hitch (easily undone)

Timber Hitch

This knot would have to be classified as a loose knot. It is used to skid timber and will grab and hold as long as there is tension on the lead. It is easily loosened  by simply shaking the rope loose.

Joining Knots

Use these to join 2 sections of line together

 

Double Sheet Bend

Carrick's Bend

Slip Sheet Bend

Loops

Figure 8 Loop

Inline Figure 8

Sliding Sheet Bend

Butterfly

      

Spanish Bowline

    

Taut Line

Triple Crown

 

Whipping

Naw we are not talking about tying some "ner do well" to the main mast and administering justice, but this is the process use to preserve the end of a line that is made out of natural fibers and can't be melted to seal.

                

Slip Knots

See Sliding Sheet Bend  in LOOPS   and   Joining

Fishing Knots

Click to see the the page devoted to this subject.

 

Gathering Knots

Cod End Knot

This is a good knot for  gathering a line or even an extension chord and is used by construction workers and commercial fishermen.

                         



Push a
bight of rope through a half-hitch as shown in the first diagram and pull another bight (arrow 1) through the first bight and tighten down the first bight to trap the second bight (arrow 2).  In the second diagram, you pull another bight of rope through the previous one and trap it by pulling on the other line as seen by arrow 4.

You can continue this "braiding" method to take up the extra rope if you like and tuck the ends through the final bight to secure it.  When you want to undo it, you'd untuck the ends and pull alternately on each line to unzip the knot.

Untying Knots

Now that you know how to tie various knot you may want to get them untied.  Here are some tips that apply to most knot. (This is assuming that the knots were tied with rope and not wit wire)

    • Push - Don't try to pull a knotted line

    • Use a hammer to tap the knot to loosen the binding points.

    • Use marlin spikes (tapered spikes) to work the knot loose

Click to see a  Glossary of terms as used in this page

 

 

Line Handling Techniques


A tangled line is a source of frustration but even worse, if you are in an emergency and you need a line immediately than it needs to be put up in such a way that anyone can figure out hoe to uncoil it.

Electricians Braid

 

 

The first of two methods I'll describe is shown above.  It goes by many different names including an Electrician's Braid and a Doubled Monkey Chain.  Parachutists use such a method to keep their chute cords from tangling.

Double up the rope by grasping the two ends together and make a slip noose as shown in step "A".  Then, reach through the loop just made and pull a
bight of doubled-up rope through it to make a new loop.  Continue reaching and pulling loops until you get to step "C".

If you reverse the last move correctly, the whole thing should cleanly unzip with a single tug.  This can be tricky sometimes.

Most find it easier to finish the chain by almost pulling the last double loop all the way through, but then taking single bight leftover (the middle of the rope), and and throwing this single bight over the final double bight, as shown in the "Improved Method..." diagram.  So when you want to undo it, you just pull on the only single bight available.

This method is especially effective in keeping your rope tangle-free when you need to wash a filthy rope in the washing machine (air-dry only to prevent heat damage).  Switching hands halfway through the braid helps reduce kinking at the end.
 

line coil

It is extremely important that everyone onboard a boat coil and stores the lines in exactly the same way. That way if there is an emergency, such as in a storm, anyone will be able to handle the line by instinct and not have to try and decipher someone else's knots. Below is the most common method and even though we show an alternate method (figure 8 coil) we do not recommend it except maybe on land

Once the line is coiled it is hanged on a spike or peg by placing the spike through the eye that is formed at the top of the coil.

figure 8 coil
This is just another way of storing your rope or gathering up excess rope that you want to keep out of the way.
 

figure8 coil

Start by grasping both ends together and coil up the doubled-up rope around your arm until you get to the bighted middle of the rope.  Then, take this leftover bight and wrap it around the coil to make an eye and push it through the resulting eye of the coil as shown.  If you prefer, you can start coiling at the middle of the rope.

You can use the loop to hang the coil.
 

 

Line Care

A line can be a life line in some situations and understandably so for rock climbers and mountaineers. Taking care of your lines is important and helps to keep them in usable condition.

Basically rope is made from either natural fibers such as Hemp or Thatch Palm, and synthetics such as Nylon, Dacron, and various Polyesters. Any rope or line will eventually break down due to the elements such as sunlight, chemicals such as petroleum, and strain.  Protecting a line from these things will extend the life of it and will allow you to depend on it when needed. (Climbers must adhere to the manufacturers specifications and replacement guides)

Synthetic lines should be have the ends sealed with a flame (be careful, the rope is combustible or can drip hot melted material causing severe burns) or with an epoxy or whipping.  

Natural fiber line should be whipped  or sealed with a piece of shrink tubing (used in electrical work) or even taped. If not it will have a tendency to unravel.

 

 

Click here to make wut2c.com your homepage 

   Go to top      Build an Itinerary

  About wut2.com       Advertise with us        Link to Us        Contact us     Report Errors         Job Opportunities          Legal           Copyright