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Powder Skiing    

Up until a few years ago, powder skiing was the exclusive  realm of well to do expert skiers, those dedicated enough to find deep, untracked snow cover and skilled enough to handle it. The average skiing just had to hope to catch a glimpse of  their screaming descents on a TV documentary. (See powder skiing  glossary)

Over the past 10 years, everything has changed. The development of wide, stubby "powder skis" has allowed even intermediate skiers to float through the deepest, lightest snow (see powder equipment). The technique is different enough from general downhill skiing and may to require a day or two of learning.  Powder skiers  knows that there is nothing like the sensation hurling powder. The sensation of weightlessness and speed that generates an the out-of-body euphoria familiar to surfers, and sky divers. In the epic, head-high stuff—what enthusiasts call "the blue room"—the experience is said to be almost spiritual.

If you are first to the top after a Heavy  layer of fresh snow you may consider the slope as "powder".  But it won't last - not for long, anyway, given that a resort such as Whistler in British Columbia.  or Vail in Colorado, can process more than 50,000 skiers an hour. If you want the best, you have to make your way into the Rocky Mountains of eastern British Columbia. The moisture laden air coming in land from the warm Pacific currents, dumps a tremendous amount of  Fresh white powder on the slopes of the Rockies. This area in generally undeveloped and has plenty of virgin slopes.

There are three ways to get onto it. The royal road to powder has always been heli-skiing, and B.C. has become the world capital, with 23 operators serving more than 15,000 skiers a year. Deep in the backcountry, skiers spend up to $8,000 a week to find untrammeled peaks, logging more than 14,000 vertical feet a day without crossing anyone else's tracks. Somewhat less expensive is cat skiing, in which you can ride out in Caterpillar-style tractors  (referred to as Bombardier by the locals) similar to the ones used for grooming ski slopes or transporting groups to the tops of glaciers. At the relative bargain end of the spectrum are traditional ski resorts, a number of which have worked hard to string up lifts into previously less accessible backcountry.

Powder skiing, especially in virgin territory with large accumulations requires advanced skill and additional safety concerns. See our section on Avalanche concerns. If you are injured here there is no ski patrol that may stumble across you in time to be of assistance. Before you consider getting onto isolated slopes,  practice your handling techniques, your equipment,  study avalanche danger signs, and become proficient in the use of a personal transceiver. Practice - practice - practice.   Top of page 

 

Heli-skiing:
Most heli-skiing operators are wary about taking you up out without first assessing your  abilities.

The experience of heli-skiing starts well before you ever reach the slope. The adrenaline begins to flow as soon as you see the helicopter approaching. As you fight the blizzard thrown up by the wash of the helicopter's rotors you get a taste of the chill you will feel from the wind whipping past your cheeks on the downhill run. The ride up is a first for may people as most of us do not have the opportunity to fly in a copter in the normal course of our day.   Getting comfortable on board may be difficult as with your cold weather clothing you will be fairly cramped for space. This is not a to be squeamish about rubbing shoulders with someone you are not in love with. On take-off, the helicopter rises, dips forward, and gains forward speed.  As you rise, you get the sensation of your breakfast settling into the pit of your stomach, but your mind is distracted by the panoramic view of the  white folds of the mountain. 

When you reach the designated drop off zone the copter descends creating a near white out condition as the unpacked snow whips up a veritable blizzard. This settles a bit as the engine speed is throttled back and you get the disembark sign. Jumping out you sink into the snow. and struggle to make room for rest of the group. Moving off to a safe distance, you turn your back to your only other option to getting off the mountain as the helicopters blades pick up speed and whips the snow into a frenzy. You may be inclined to stand there and watch as the  thup-thup-thup of the blades fades out. 

The stillness of the mountain belies the lack of calm in your guts. Just a few minutes ago your were warm and joking with well wishers, now you are standing on top of the world looking down at the tree line. Snapping on your skis, you and usually a guide, move to the edge, being careful to hold back until you have surveyed your anticipated path and scoped out the possibility of  danger. Everyone needs to locate a mutual spot way down there  where they will pull out and a last word from your guide (one guide with each group is required).  Looking around at the others to make sure everyone is set, your guide then you slip over the edge and are gone.

The softness of the snow ( it can't even be called "snow pack") is shocking. It is so fluid that it seems to have it's own life life a big wave. Cutting back and forth in a bounce throws up plumes but seems to do little to slow you down. You need to cut back and point yourself uphill to achieve any real slowing. Occasionally it seems that you are going  to plow under the snow but you keep moving. Don't be too surprised if you sit down once or twice before you get the hang of it. By now you will have powder in every chink in you ski suit and the body heat that the effort is generating melts the snow and it begins to trickle down your neck adding another sensation to add to your experience. You will be so busy that you will hardly have time to notice how everyone else is doing and all you can do is to focus on the pre-arranged pullout location.

The only real downside to this downhill experience is that what goes up must come down and eventually stop. But look at it this way; if you can afford it you can do it all again.    Top of page 

Cat skiing:

The most noticeable difference between cat skiing and heli-skiing is the contrivances to get you to the top and the time it takes to get you there. For those of you who may have some qualms about flying in a copter the snow cat or "bambardier" may be the way to go. 

With the snow cat  there is no thup-thup-thup of the blades and no blinding snowstorm with it's arrival.  Just a purring of the engine and rumbling of the tracks. Inside is roomier than a copter and warm. You may even get a little catering with a box lunch and a hot beverage, generally coffee or cocoa served steaming from a thermos. You have a chance to enjoy the scenery in the way up and up it is . at some point it seem impossibly steep but the cat rumbles on as you cast nervous looks around the cabin to see how everyone else is fairing. A stoic bunch that group is, no-one allowing the concern to show on their face, so you buck up and smile. Just about the time you are ready for it to end it does. You level off onto the summit and everyone piles out into the dazzling brilliance of the unimpeded view.

Depending upon which mountain you ascended or what outfit took you there, the slopes steepness may vary. Because it is fluff you will  need to remember that the ride down will be different from resort skiing.  Here you will be skiing through soft powder that is deep enough to bury you. And if that should happen, hold your breathe as you are going in and then straighten out  your skis and breaststroke your way out. 

Your group pushes off and begin making tracks, heading for the tree line, cutting back and forth to draw out the experience, giving those leg muscles a good work out. As you enter the tree line you need to pick out your path as there is no "improved" slope here just you and nature.

Waiting at the bottom is a snow cat (probably not the one the were in previously as you will certainly beat it to the bottom) warm and  waiting  to take you up again or back to the lodge. What  a way to go. Maybe you only get in 2 or 3 runs in a day but the quality makes it seem like a lot more.    Top of page 

No matter how you get into it "powder" is worth everything that goes into it.

A couple of places for powder in British Columbia.

Heli Skiing -----  Panorama Mountain Village, the home of R.K. Heli-Ski. who has an exclusive concessionaire to 1,240 square miles of prime mountain parkland,  that never lacks for snow. Few other heli-ski operators are willing to take customers up for a single day. 

Cat Skiing ----- Island Lake Lodge owns all the terrain it skis—5,000 skiable acres out of 7,000, about the size of Whistler.  The lack of a winter road access reflects the environmentalist philosophy of the lodge, which seeks to minimize its own impact on the valley. Island Lake can accommodate only 36 skiers, and peak-season slots are booked up to a year in advance.

Get powder on a lift resort.

Kicking Horse Resort -  Canada's newest ski resort
The newest ski resort in Canada, Kicking Horse has 4,100 vertical feet of terrain ranging from open bowls and groomed cruisers to backcountry bushwhacks and double-black-diamond chutes. For now the newness of this resort  and low traffic flow will allow most  visitors to experience powder skiing if they are willing to veer off of the beaten path. 
The resort's major downside is that there's hardly anything going on at the base, which consists only of a sunny day lodge and a ski-rental trailer. At this time accommodations are limited to a handful of  luxurious rental  apartments at the top and catered to by a fairly expensive restaurant. The nearest human habitation is 10 miles away as the crow flies. More development is planned over the next few years.     Top of page 

Powder Glossary:
   blue room The out-of-body sensation skiers experience in very deep powder.
   bomb Explosive charge used by ski patrol teams to release unstable snow.
   crossloading Snow banked sideways by wind, adding to an avalanche hazard.
   dump Heavy snowfall.
   face shot Snow spray that hits you at head height while you're skiing.
   hangfire Unstable snow left behind after avalanche-control bombing.
   powder pig Aggressive powder skier who habitually takes the first tracks in a group.
   snorkel Breathing apparatus worn when skiing in head-high powder.
   tree well Dangerous concavity of snow formed around the base of a tree.

Powder skiing equipment:
   Powder skis - Stubbier than regular skies
   Snorkel Breathing apparatus worn when skiing in head-high powder.
   Transceiver -  which can be used to pinpoint anyone. (required) 
   Collapsible pole -  for probing the snow
   Shovel
   First aid kit
Top of page 

Avalanches:


More than 40 people are killed by avalanches every year in North America, a disproportionate number of them in the Canadian Rockies. When the snow piles too deeply, an avalanche can be set off by the slightest disturbance—such as a skier in search of untracked territory. Typically, a big chunk will cleave off, tumbling like powdery white water, bringing more and more snow with it until a churning mass weighing hundreds of tons is rumbling down at 80 miles an hour. Almost all lethal avalanches are triggered by the victims themselves or by members of their party. Some 1.5 million slides occur each year in western Canada alone. In British Columbia, ski resorts carefully patrol their terrain and close off any slope where a hazard exists.To control the threat, ski patrol teams launch air-propelled bombs from plastic howitzers. 

 In the backcountry, where helicopter and cat skiers venture, at least one guide trained in mountain rescue is mandated for each group of skiers, and every skier must carry a transceiver, which can be used to pinpoint anyone who may be trapped beneath an avalanche flow. Other basic gear includes a collapsible pole for probing the snow, a shovel, and a first aid kit. Before you book a backcountry trip in B.C., make sure the company is a member of the British Columbia Helicopter & Snowcat Skiing Operators Association, which requires its members to adhere to strict safety guidelines. Novices should never ski on hazardous terrain without introductory training and an experienced guide to accompany them. Before going to the backcountry, skiers should take a course.  At a resort, don't ski on terrain that has been closed; when you're cat or heli-skiing, don't ski past the lead guide. And always follow the instructions of all guides scrupulously.

Web site of organizations that offer certified instruction for recreational skiers (www.avalanche.ca). A useful book on snow avalanche hazards for backcountry travelers is Snow Sense, by Jill Fredston and Doug Fesler. They run the Alaska Mountain Safety Center, a nonprofit organization specializing in avalanche evaluation and education.              Top of page 

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